Showing 1–16 of 58 results
-
For custom game playing cards, lenticular 3D should not be treated like an extra effect added after the layout is done. Once the lenticular lens goes on, the card stops reading like a normal game card. Icons, values, and rules text become harder to hold cleanly, especially when players need to read the card quickly under normal table light.
Once the whole deck still needs to read fast in play, lenticular usually stops being the right default. It makes more sense on a few feature cards than across the entire set.
-
For tarot cards, lenticular is usually a visual decision, not a reading-friendly one. The larger format gives the effect more room to show, which is why it can work on symbolic or narrative artwork better than it does on smaller card sizes. But once the lens is added, the card stops feeling like a normal tarot card. It gets thicker, harder, and less natural in regular use.
That can work for collector decks, gift decks, and other projects where the visual effect is part of the point. It becomes much less convincing when the deck is meant for frequent readings. Once the image starts shifting under light and viewing angle, the card can become tiring to read even if it looks striking at first.
-
For bridge size playing cards, lenticular 3D printing introduces a different set of trade-offs than it does for poker decks. The bridge format is typically selected to allow players to hold more cards comfortably in hand. Once the card becomes thicker and more rigid due to the lenticular lens, that original advantage begins to diminish.
This is why lenticular bridge decks are generally associated with promotional or commemorative uses rather than traditional trick-taking gameplay.
-
For bridge size playing cards, back-only printing is often the easier and more practical route when the face side needs to stay familiar in actual play. This format is usually chosen for games where players hold more cards in hand, so keeping the front clear and standard often matters more than adding extra customization there. In that kind of project, putting the custom work on the back is usually enough.
This setup is commonly used for corporate decks, commemorative editions, and promotional bridge-style card projects. The gameplay side stays straightforward, while the back carries the event theme, logo, or brand image.
-
For bridge size playing cards, double-sided printing should never be treated as the default. Bridge cards are built to stay easy in hand when players are holding more of them at one time, so recognition has to stay fast and clean. Once both sides start carrying information, the job becomes less forgiving very quickly.
On a narrower bridge card, small front-to-back movement shows faster than many people expect. That makes alignment, opacity, and stock choice more important from the start. If the reverse side is genuinely part of play, the extra control can be worth it. If it is not, double-sided printing usually starts adding more difficulty than value.
-
For bridge size playing cards, embossing cannot be treated as a purely visual add-on. Bridge cards are used in larger hands, so players keep fanning, sorting, and re-reading them throughout play. Once the surface starts lifting, even slightly, that change can begin to affect how naturally the cards move against each other.
That is why embossing on bridge decks usually needs to stay controlled. Used in small areas, it can add a tactile point without disturbing handling too much. Once it spreads too far, the deck starts losing the smooth and easy hand feel that bridge-format cards are supposed to keep.
-
For bridge size playing cards, front-only printing is often the more sensible setup when the usable information sits mainly on the face of the card. Since bridge cards are narrower than poker cards, the layout usually feels tighter from the start. Keeping the structure to front-only helps avoid extra registration trouble and makes the deck easier to hold steady in production.
This works well for trick-taking games, teaching decks, and promotional card sets where the back only needs to stay consistent across the deck. If the reverse side does not carry hidden game information, there is usually no real benefit in making the job more complicated than it needs to be.
-
For bridge size playing cards, gilded edges are usually being chosen for presentation, not for gameplay. Bridge cards are meant to stay comfortable when players are holding more cards in hand at one time. Once the gold edge is added, the deck looks more finished straight away, but it also starts feeling a little different in use. The edge gets slicker, and that difference becomes easier to notice once the deck is fanned, sorted, and handled through real play.
That is usually fine on commemorative bridge decks, gift products, and other presentation-led projects. It becomes a more careful decision when the deck is still expected to stay comfortable through long playing sessions, because the finish is no longer only visual once the cards are in hand.
-
For bridge size playing cards, gold foil is not something to spread across the face casually. Bridge cards are used in larger hands, so suits, values, and corner information still have to be picked up quickly while the cards are being fanned and sorted. Once foil goes onto this format, the reflective area starts pulling attention faster than normal print, which is why placement matters more here than it does on a less handling-driven card type.
That is why gold foil on bridge decks usually works better when it stays on logos, back designs, or a few controlled decorative areas. Used carefully, it can lift the presentation without slowing the deck down. Push it too far, and the finish starts competing with the parts of the card that players actually need to read.
-
For bridge size playing cards, holographic is not just a visual upgrade. On a narrower format, once the surface turns reflective, the artwork becomes less forgiving and the deck starts behaving differently in actual use.
Bridge decks are usually held in larger hands and read more quickly side by side. That makes glare and contrast loss more noticeable than many clients expect. Holographic can work, but only when the visual effect is part of the concept from the start. If the deck still needs clean reading and fast hand recognition, this is not where we would start by default.
-
For bridge size playing cards, plastic is not just paper stock made tougher. Once the deck moves to PVC or PET, it stops feeling like a normal bridge deck in hand. That matters more on bridge cards because players usually hold more of them at one time, so changes in slickness and stiffness start showing up very quickly once the deck is being sorted and played.
Plastic makes more sense when the deck is expected to stay in service under heavier use and rougher conditions. It lasts well, but anyone expecting the feel of a traditional paper bridge deck will notice the difference almost immediately.
-
For bridge size playing cards, round corners are not there for visual softness. They are part of what makes the narrower format work in real gameplay. Bridge cards are typically held in larger quantities, fanned repeatedly, and shuffled over extended sessions. Once the sharp point is removed, the corners are less likely to catch or wear unevenly, allowing the deck to remain presentable through continued use.
The bridge format (57 × 88 mm) is often selected for games where players manage 10 or more cards at a time. In these situations, handling comfort and edge durability matter more than visual styling. Round corners make the deck easier to handle and less likely to start showing corner wear too early. For bridge decks that are meant to be played regularly, that is usually the safer format to stay with.
-
For bridge size playing cards, silver edges are usually being chosen for how the deck looks, not for how it plays. Bridge cards are made to stay easy in hand when players are holding more cards at one time. Once the silver edge is added, the deck looks more finished, but the cards also start feeling a little different in use. The edge gets slicker, and that difference becomes easier to notice once the deck is fanned, sorted, and handled through real play.
That is usually acceptable on commemorative bridge decks, gift products, and other presentation-led projects. It becomes a more careful decision when the deck is still expected to stay comfortable through long playing sessions, because the finish is no longer only visual once the cards are in hand.
-
For bridge size playing cards, Spot UV cannot be pushed around casually. Bridge cards are meant to stay easy to read when players are holding several cards at once, so anything glossy near the suits, values, or corner information starts becoming noticeable very quickly. On this format, the finish has less room to hide before it begins getting in the way.
That is why Spot UV on bridge decks usually works better on back designs, logos, or a few controlled decorative areas. Spot UV is fine when it stays on parts of the card that are not doing the reading job. Once it starts moving into the wrong areas, the deck stops feeling clean and starts becoming harder to use.
-
For bridge size playing cards, transparent stock is harder to carry than it is on poker cards. Bridge cards are meant to stay easy to read when players are holding more of them in hand, so once the card turns clear, that narrower layout starts losing support very quickly. Suits, values, and corner information can stop reading cleanly unless the artwork is built very deliberately for the material.
On this format, transparent cards usually make more sense for promo use, commemorative pieces, or other projects where the material itself is part of the idea. For traditional trick-taking play, the trade-off is much harder to justify, because bridge cards only work well when recognition stays fast and easy in hand.
-
White border poker cards are standard 2.5″ × 3.5″ poker-size playing cards with a clean white margin around both the face and back. That border does two things: it hides the normal ±0.25 mm cutting drift so your design still looks centered if the cut’s a hair off, and it covers up minor edge wear from shuffling. Casinos and heavy-use decks stick with white borders for exactly that reason.
At FUNWAY, every white-border deck is customizable. Upload your own designs for the card faces, backs, and tuck box. Rather not design from scratch? Pick from our finishes — linen, smooth, or glossy — and choose a core that fits (white, black, blue, gray, or go coreless). Want to take it further? Foil stamping, embossing, UV coating, you name it. For packaging we’ve got tin boxes, drawer boxes, flip magnet boxes, mailer boxes — basically whatever you’ve got in mind.
Pricing depends on how many decks you’re ordering, plus your core, finish, and packaging choices.
Simple custom prints start at 300 decks MOQ; at 1,000+ the per-deck cost comes down quite a bit. Send us your specs and we’ll get you an exact quote plus a free digital proof.
