Custom Miniature
for Board Games & Tabletop Games

Choosing the right scale and material is the first decision in custom game miniature manufacturing. At FUNWAY, we produce custom board game miniatures in plastic, resin, and metal—ranging from 10mm army figures to 40mm+ collector pieces. We do not choose scale from the render alone: every figure must survive tooling, fit the box and insert, and remain stable through repeated gameplay. If the scale is pushed too far, weapons break, bases tip, and facial detail disappears—problems that are expensive to fix after mold release.

  • Humanoid Character Miniatures — heroes, villains, soldiers, and NPCs in 25mm–35mm
  • Monster & Boss Figures — large-scale creatures and encounter pieces in 40mm+
  • Army & Unit Miniatures — mass-production figures for wargames and strategy games in 10mm–15mm
  • Animal & Creature Miniatures — mounts, familiars, and wildlife with custom poses
  • Vehicle & Structure Miniatures — tanks, ships, buildings, and terrain pieces
  • Collector & Promo Figures — limited-edition resin or metal pieces for deluxe tiers

Specification

Details

Materials

Scales

Measurement Baseline

Base Types

MOQ

Turnaround

Color Options

Packaging

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We Provide All options for Custom Game Miniature

Custom Miniatures Sizes & Scale Standards

Miniature scale should be fixed early, before sculpt details are finalized. Late changes often break production limits—thin parts, unstable bases, or oversized figures that no longer fit the box or insert.

Scale must work in real use, not just renders. If the base is too large, the pose unstable, or parts too fragile, the scale is not suitable.

Common Tabletop Scale Standards & Measurement Baselines

Miniature scale must use one consistent measurement standard. Mixing methods (eyes, head, helmet, etc.) leads to mismatched proportions across the set.This only becomes obvious when expansions or different factions are placed together, so the rule must be fixed from the start.

Industry-Standard Miniature Scales

  • 10–15mm: Used for large armies and map-heavy games. Detail is limited; too much complexity can soften or fail in molding.
  • 25–28mm: Standard board game scale, balancing detail, playability, and production efficiency. Common starting point for most sets.
  • 32–35mm: Hero scale with higher presence and detail, but more sensitive to thin parts, balance, and tooling cost.
  • 40mm+: For bosses, monsters, or display pieces. Strong visual impact but higher volume, packing, and structural demands that must be planned early.

Measurement Baselines: Eye-Level vs. Total Height

Eye-level scaling is preferred for humanoid figures, as it avoids distortion from hair, helmets, or raised parts and keeps proportions consistent.

Total height scaling is better for monsters or display pieces where full silhouette matters. It should not be mixed with humanoid standards. Scale must be fixed before sculpt approval to avoid costly rework.

Scale-Driven Engineering Constraints

Small figures can’t hold unlimited detail, and large ones aren’t just scaled-up versions. Each scale has its own limits.

Small scales lose detail in faces, fingers, and thin parts. Larger figures face issues like shrinkage, warping, and fragile extended elements without support.

Undercuts and weak structures must be reviewed before tooling, as fixes after mold

These engineering checks are part of our complete custom board game manufacturing workflow, ensuring your miniatures integrate cleanly with custom game boards, tokens, and boxes.

Base Integration & Tolerance Management

The base affects stability, board fit, and durability, not just appearance.

Integrated bases are molded with the figure and are more reliable for mass-market games with fewer assembly issues. Slot or socket bases suit hobby kits but must account for paint thickness; otherwise they may become too tight or loose, affecting stability.

Consistency Across Core Games & Expansions

For expansions, scale references and dimensions must be recorded to keep consistency. Without this, later releases can drift in size and break visual continuity across the same character line.

Custom Miniatures Materials: PVC, Resin, and ABS

Material choice is critical in miniature projects. A wrong selection can cause breakage, bending, loss of detail, or cost issues at scale.We choose material based on the sculpt, not the other way around, to avoid production and durability problems.

High-Detail PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)

PVC is the standard material for mass-market miniatures, offering good durability for handling, shipping, and large production runs.

However, it cannot preserve ultra-fine sculpt details. Thin or sharp elements often need early adjustment, as shrinkage and mold limits can affect the final result. It suits high-volume durable figures, not resin-level detail without design changes.

Professional Resin Casting

Resin delivers high detail and is suited for small runs, prototypes, or collector pieces.

However, it is brittle and can break on thin or extended parts, making it unsuitable for heavy handling in mass-market games. It fits detail-focused projects where durability is less critical.

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)

ABS is used for harder, sharper parts in sprue-based or assembly-style miniatures, suitable for hobby or tactical kits.

It requires stricter design and tooling, with less flexibility and higher risk of cracking on thin parts. It fits hobby-focused products, while PVC is generally better for mass-market handling.

Custom Miniatures Color & Surface Finishing

Color finishing should be set based on production volume and usage, not sample appearance alone.Hand painting increases cost at scale but improves detail. Molded color is efficient for mass production but limits fine visual effects. The wrong choice can either raise cost too much or reduce visual quality under use.

Hand Painting

Hand painting is used when paint meaningfully adds value, such as collector pieces, limited runs, prototypes, or premium editions. It enhances faces, armor, cloth, and small details, but each color or effect increases labor cost.

It is slow and not suitable for very large volumes. Proper priming is also required to ensure paint adhesion and reduce wear during handling. For mass-market games, simpler finishes or molded color are usually preferred, with minimal shading if needed for depth.

Solid Color Injection & Material Tinting

Solid-color injection is a practical option for high-volume miniatures, with color mixed directly into the plastic. It improves durability since edges won’t chip like paint, making it suitable for mass production and player-color systems.

Pantone matching should be confirmed early, but molded colors will still differ slightly from printed or screen references. While efficient, this method does not add detail—weak sculpts become more noticeable. It works best for simple, color-driven designs rather than detailed, realistic figures.

Transparent Pricing

Custom Game Miniature Pricing Examples

See real-world pricing examples for popular board game styles. Every project is unique. these estimates help you plan your budget before requesting a detailed quote.

Standard Resin Miniatures

Basic resin figures for tabletop characters and units

Component

Specification

Qty

Miniatures

28mm Scale

10 pcs

Material

Grey Resin

/

Finish Type

Unpainted

/

Detail Level

High Detail

/

Included Accessories

Bases Included

/

Estimated Quote (1,000 units)

$8 – 25 / set

Lead time: 15-60 days

Detailed Hero Miniatures

Highly detailed character miniatures with strong display appeal

Component

Specification

Qty

Miniatures

35mm Scale

10 pcs

Material

High-detail Resin

/

Finish Type

Unpainted

/

Detail Level

Dynamic Poses

/

Included Accessories

Custom Bases

/

Estimated Quote (1,000 units)

$12 – 35 / set

Lead time: 15-60 days

Understand Your Costs

Deep-dive guides to help you budget, plan, and avoid surprises.

Individual Component Pricing

Need a quote for just one component? Check individual pricing for each sub-service.

Custom Game Board

Custom Game Mats

Custom Game Box

Custom Game Tokens

Custom Playing Cards

Custom Meeples

Custom Game Tiles

Custom Game Dice

Rulebooks / Money / Stickers

Ready to Get Your Exact Quote?

These are estimates. Your game is unique. Send us your specs and we’ll return a detailed, itemized quote within 24 hours.

Complete Custom Board Game Components

A board game is a system of interconnected components. At FUNWAY, we manufacture every element — from the board and box down to the smallest token — as one integrated production, not separate parts. Here are all the customizable components that go into a complete board game. And of course, you can choose to customize the whole or just a part of it.

Custom Game Boards

Folded or rigid boards up to 600×900mm with hinge alignment and surface finishing

Custom Board Game Box

Telescope, rigid, and magnetic boxes engineered for fit and stacking strength

Custom Game Mats & Screens

Neoprene play surfaces and foldable player screens

Custom Playing Cards

Cardstock selection, clean cutting, and coatings for stable shuffling

Custom Miniatures

PVC and resin figures with mold review and scale consistency control

Custom Game Dice

Precision dice in multiple materials, sizes, and custom face designs

Custom Printed Meeples

Player markers in wood or plastic with precise silhouettes and color control

Custom Game Tiles

Map and terrain modules in cardboard, plastic, or acrylic

Custom Game Tokens

Punchboard chips, wooden discs, and counters for scores and resources

Custom Game Pieces

Metal coins, wooden resources, plastic pawns, standees, and specialty parts

Custom Rulebooks, Play Money, Notepads & Stickers

Printed paper essentials for rules, currency, and scorekeeping

Every component above is manufactured through our integrated production system — from component mapping and engineering review through sampling and mass production. Learn more about our complete custom board game printing services.

Why Choose FUNWAY

We have been making cards, puzzles, and board games since 1999. Today we run a 16,000-square-meter factory with over 200 workers. We are a direct OEM/ODM manufacturer, not a trading company. We have finished 5,000+ projects and shipped 2.3 million+ products worldwide. You get factory-direct pricing and a team that knows this work inside out.

We handle everything from design to final packing. You can order 1 piece for testing or 10,000 for a full launch — we keep the same quality at any quantity.

  • Competitive Bulk Pricing
  • Factory-Direct Quality Control
  • On-Time Delivery Promise
  • 1-on-1 Project Support
  • Trusted by Global Brands
  • Secure Payment & After-Sales
Learn More About FUNWAY
Get a Bulk QuoteContact Expert Directly

Why Bulk Buy From FUNWAY

Competitive Bulk Pricing

  • 1 for prototype Available.
  • MOQ starts at 100 decks with real factory pricing.
  • No hidden tooling fees – art setup is included.
  • Volume tiers unlock deeper unit costs as your brand grows.
Pre-Production Check

Factory-Direct Quality Control

  • Raw material incoming check
  • First-piece print approval
  • In-process patrol inspection
  • Finished-goods sampling,
  • Pre-shipment full check.
  • Your approved sample is the gold standard for bulk.

On-Time Delivery Promise

  • 15-20 days locked production cycle after sample approval.
  • Delay penalties are written into the contract.
  • DHL, FedEx, and sea freight with full tracking from our door to yours.

1-on-1 Project Support

  • One dedicated account manager from quote to delivery.
  • WhatsApp / WeChat / Email response within 24 hours.
  • Urgent issues within 4 hours.
  • Unlimited artwork revisions before sample approval.

Trusted by Global Brands

  • Serving creators and distributors in 30+ countries.
  • 67% of clients reorder within 6 months.
  • Proven track record with Kickstarter and Indiegogo campaigns, from prototype to fulfillment.

Secure Payment & After-Sales

  • 30% deposit to start, 70% against copy of B/L.
  • PayPal, Alibaba Trade Assurance, and L/C accepted.
  • Quality defects are covered by our replacement or refund policy.

OEM / ODM Manufacturing Process

Project & Component Mapping

Step 1: Project Review & Component Mapping

We do not quote from a loose parts list. We quote from a complete product plan.

Before pricing, we map every component: board, cards, tokens, rulebook, insert, box, and accessories. We check how they fit as one packed set. This keeps the quote accurate. It also prevents surprises later in tooling, packing, and freight. We check:

  • Board size and fold type
  • Card count and deck thickness
  • Rulebook size and page count
  • Insert and box structure
  • Punchboards, wooden parts, dice, meeples, or plastic parts after that
  • Target quantity and delivery market

Getting this order right keeps your project on budget and on schedule.

Step 2: DFM Check & Manufacturing Review

A bad sample usually starts from a design that was never checked for real production.

Before we build samples, we review your files for real-world manufacturing. We check dielines, bleed, safe zones, fold lines, card thickness, box depth, insert fit, and surface finish. We fix these issues before sampling:

  • Artwork too close to cut edge
  • Board folds that may crack after lamination
  • Cards too thick for the tuck box or insert
  • Punchboard tokens too small or weak after die-cutting
  • Box depth too tight once all parts are packed
  • Freight cost rising because box size was not controlled early

If the packed set cannot close cleanly, changing the finish will not fix it. We fix the structure first.

Step 3: Sample Production & Approval

The sample is not a photo shoot. It is the production standard.

We build the first sample to test material feel, fold strength, color accuracy, box fit, insert tightness, and total weight. You review it. You approve it. This approved sample becomes the Golden Sample. All mass production is checked against it.

After this point, changes to board size, card stock, insert, or box depth will restart cost and lead time. We keep the sample stable so your bulk order stays on track.

Step 4: Tooling & Mold Setup

We open tooling only after the Golden Sample is locked.

Tooling covers die-cut tools for cards, boards, punchboards, inserts, and boxes. For special plastic parts, we may need molds or fixtures.

We never rush tooling while the design is still moving. Once the die is made, changes cost time and money. We wait for your final approval before cutting steel.

This protects your tooling investment and keeps the project on schedule.

Step 5: Pre-Production Validation

Small errors are cheapest to catch before the full run.

We run a small pre-production batch. We check color drift, cutting position, fold accuracy, board thickness, surface finish, and component fit.

If anything does not match the Golden Sample, we stop and fix it before using more material. This step saves both time and cost.

This is why we never skip pre-production validation.

Step 6: Mass Production & Assembly

A game is not done when the parts are printed. It is done when the box closes properly.

Cards, boards, Punchboards, rulebooks, boxes, inserts, wooden pieces, dice, and accessories have to work as one packed set. During assembly, we check whether the approved packing layout still makes sense at production speed.

This is critical for B2B orders. Your distributor receives finished goods, not loose parts. Every set must be packed clean, stack flat, and ship safely.

We control assembly so your goods arrive ready for shelf or warehouse.

Step 7: Final QC & Global Shipping

A perfect product can still fail if the carton is wrong.

Before shipping, we check carton count, sets per carton, gross weight, carton size, shipping marks, and barcode labels. We match everything to your purchase order.

For B2B and retail orders, we also check pallet markings and stack height.

Small direct shipments get standard export packing. We ship by DHL, FedEx, or sea freight with full tracking. Every order leaves our factory with correct paperwork.

Why This Process Matters

Most problems do not show up early. They show up after one wrong decision forces the next.

  • A larger board changes the fold size.
  • The fold size changes the box footprint.
  • The box footprint changes insert and carton fit.
  • The carton fit changes freight cost.
  • Thicker cards can make the insert too tight.
  • A late artwork change delays sampling and mass production.

This process is not meant to slow you down. For simple projects, we keep it fast. For complex projects with many parts, retail rules, or tight deadlines, these checks protect you from costly rework.

Prototyping & First-Article Inspection (FAI)


A miniature should not move from a nice-looking 3D sculpt straight into steel tooling. That is where expensive mistakes usually start. Before the mold is cut, we need to see the sculpt as a physical part. Thin weapons, fingers, horns, or tails may look fine in the file but fail once handled. Small surface textures may disappear at tabletop scale. Deep undercuts can force ugly parting lines or weak mold areas. These are not problems we want to discover after steel tooling has started.

Before any steel tooling investment is made, we use a two-step validation path: first the high-resolution 3D master, then a soft-mold PU sample when the project needs a closer production feel. The 3D file is not treated as final just because it looks good on screen.

High-Resolution 3D Master Prototypes

We first produce physical master prototypes using SLA (Stereolithography) or DLP (Digital Light Processing) 3D printing. These processes cure liquid resin layer by layer, with typical layer resolution around 25–50 microns. That gives us a real part to check before the project moves into tooling.

At this stage, we look closely at the details that usually cause trouble later:

Facial expressions and micro-surface textures
Chainmail, armor edges, and organic sculpt transitions
Thin or high-risk elements such as weapons, fingers, horns, tails, and extended limbs

These master prototypes become the locked reference geometry for the next validation steps. If the sword is already too thin, the face is too soft, or the pose makes the figure unstable here, we fix it before the cost moves into steel mold work.

Silicone Soft Mold & PU Casting Samples (Production-Feel Validation)

For premium miniatures, large figures, Kickstarter deluxe tiers, or multi-part pieces, a 3D printed master is often not enough. Approved masters can be used to make a silicone soft mold, and then PU casting samples are produced from that mold.

This step gives a better feel for the part outside of raw resin printing. It helps publishers check:

Real-world part weight and hand feel
Structural balance and center of gravity
Assembly logic for multi-part miniatures
Surface behavior under priming and paint application

A PU sample is not the final PVC, ABS, or HIPS part. It cannot replace a tooling sample. But it does show problems that a raw 3D print often hides. You can feel the weight, check whether the pose stands properly, test how multi-part assembly works, and see whether primer or paint starts exposing surface defects. For premium miniatures or large figures, this step is usually worth doing before steel tooling money is spent.

Design Lock Before Tooling Investment

Once both the 3D master prototype and PU casting sample are approved, the sculpt should be treated as design-locked. This is important because changes after tooling are no longer small changes.

Design lock means:
No major dimensional or structural changes should be made after tooling starts
Steel mold investment can move forward with lower revision risk
Downstream T1–T3 tooling samples are expected to stay within the approved dimensional direction

This step helps avoid the worst kind of delay: discovering after the mold is cut that the weapon is too weak, the parting line is ugly, the base does not sit flat, or the painted surface no longer matches what was approved in the digital sculpt.

T1–T3 Production Pulls: Once the industrial steel molds are completed, we produce T1 samples directly from the actual production tooling, using the final specified material such as PVC, ABS, or HIPS.

This is where the mold starts telling the truth. A resin print or PU sample can still hide problems, but a T1 production pull will not. Once the part comes out of the actual steel mold in the final material — PVC, ABS, or HIPS — shrinkage, parting lines, ejector marks, mold flow, and assembly fit all become visible.

At T1 stage, we check:
Material shrinkage and scale compensation
Parting line placement and visibility
Ejector pin positioning and surface impact
Wall thickness consistency and mold flow
Surface detail after real production pull
Fit and alignment for multi-part assemblies

If T1 exposes a weak sword, a soft face, a bad ejector mark, uneven shrinkage, or a joint that does not close cleanly, we do not treat it as a small cosmetic issue. That is the kind of problem that gets worse in mass production, not better. It needs to be corrected before approval.

If needed, the mold is adjusted and checked again through T2 and T3 samples. We only move forward when the miniature is stable in the real production material: the size is right, the surface detail holds, the parting line is acceptable, and the assembly still works after molding. That is the point where mass production becomes safe to start.

Mass Production & Quality Control


Once the FAI sample is approved, mass production should follow that approved sample, not the original render. The approved sample becomes the reference. If the factory keeps chasing the digital sculpt after that point, the run can start drifting.

Injection Molding Control

For PVC or plastic miniatures, molding has to stay stable across the run. If pressure, temperature, cooling, or cavity balance moves too much, the result shows up fast: soft detail, short shots, deformation, or parts that no longer assemble cleanly.

Assembly & Bonding

Multi-part miniatures are where small shortcuts show up fast. A joint may look fine in the approved sample, but if the contact area is too small, or the part is pulling against the glue line, it can crack loose after a few plays. We check whether the parts seat properly, whether the bond has enough area to hold, and whether the finished figure can be picked up, dropped into the tray, and handled like a real game piece before it goes into packing.

In-Line Inspection

Miniature QC cannot wait until the end. We check during production for visible deformation, missing detail, rough parting lines, unstable bases, color issues, and assembly defects. If these are only found after packing, the rework cost is much worse.

Compliance Checks

For board game and tabletop products, materials can be checked against the required market standards, such as EN71 for the EU or ASTM F963 for the US, when the project needs children’s product or retail compliance support.

Factors Influencing Unit Cost


Miniature cost usually gets out of control before mass production even starts. The expensive decisions are often already inside the sculpt: undercuts, thin parts, part count, material choice, scale, and whether the figure needs painting or assembly.

Tooling Complexity & Mold Engineering

Deep undercuts, crossed arms, capes, weapons, horns, tails, and complex silhouettes all make the mold harder. Every extra slide, insert, or mold split adds cost. If the sculpt ignores molding direction, the figure may look good in the render but become expensive or unstable in tooling.

Part Count, Assembly & Labor Intensity

A single-piece miniature is usually the cleanest route for mass-market board games. Once the figure is split into multiple parts, cost starts moving: more molds, more assembly, more bonding checks, more alignment risk.

Multi-part figures make sense when the pose or detail truly needs it. If the split is only there because the sculpt was not designed for production, the project pays for that mistake later.

Scale, Weight & Material Consumption

Production Volume

Cost Control Before Tooling

Project Cases


FAQs about Custom Miniature

There is no single “best” material. It depends on order quantity, detail level, durability needs, weight preference, and budget.

For large production runs, PVC or ABS plastic usually works best — they’re repeatable at scale and hold up to regular tabletop play. Resin suits prototypes, small batches, or pieces that need very fine detail, but it tends to be brittle so it’s not always ideal for volume. Metal gives real heft and a premium feel but drives cost up significantly.

For standard tabletop games, 25-28 mm is usually the safest bet. That size balances model presence, detail visibility, mold feasibility, packaging space, and in-game handling well.

For mass-battle games, map exploration, or anything with lots of units on the board, 10-15 mm saves table space and keeps the board from getting crowded. For hero characters, bosses, or special units, 32-35 mm gives more visual impact and lets you pack in more detail.

The final scale should account for game mechanics, model count, viewing distance, base size, box dimensions, and insert layout. Locking this in late can lead to models that are too fragile, too bulky, or don’t fit in the final packaging.

Eye-level height measures from the base to the eyes of humanoid figures. This method works better for human characters because hair, helmets, horns, or raised weapons can throw off total height measurements.

Total height measures from the base to the highest point on the model. This works better for monsters, creatures, bosses, or display pieces where the overall silhouette matters more.

Pick one measurement rule and lock it in before sculpts are approved. If some models are measured to eye level and others to the top of a weapon or head, scale consistency across your game — and future expansions — will drift.

Yes. We accept STL, OBJ, or FBX files. STL is the most common for resin prototypes or 3D printing. The file needs correct scale, closed surfaces, and enough wall thickness on thin parts.

Before mold-making or volume production, we review the 3D model for manufacturing feasibility. Thin weapons, deep undercuts, unsupported overhangs, tiny facial details, and base attachment points all need checking before cutting steel. A model that looks great on screen often needs adjustments to mold and cast reliably.

Before volume production, we typically make a resin prototype to check sculpt detail, scale, base dimensions, center of gravity, and whether thin parts are strong enough.

For PVC or ABS injection molding, we suggest 500 pieces per design. Injection miniatures involve mold making, trial shots, material tuning, and process adjustments — the numbers need to be high enough for the unit economics to work.

Resin prototypes usually take 5-7 days from confirmed 3D sculpt files.

For injection-molded PVC or ABS miniatures, mold making and first shots typically take 15-20 days depending on model complexity and mold structure.

After sample approval, volume production usually runs 20-30 days. Painting, assembly, or mold revisions add extra time.

We do both unpainted and painted. For cost-sensitive projects, unpainted models or pre-colored plastic are the usual choices.

If models need richer visual detail, we can do base coat spray, simple color application, or full hand-painting. Which route makes sense depends on detail level, order quantity, target price, and how consistent the paint finish needs to be.

Full hand-painting looks great but costs more and takes longer. We typically need a painted sample approved before running a full batch.

For every miniature project, we keep archived records of approved scale references, final dimensions, base sizes, and confirmed 3D files. That gives us a fixed standard when developing new models or expansion content.

Before producing expansion miniatures, we check new sculpts against the original approved scale rules — eye height for humanoids, total height for monsters and creatures. This prevents models from gradually creeping larger or smaller across a product line and keeps the visual style consistent.

We prefer 3D model files in STL, OBJ, or FBX format. Before prototype printing or mold review, make sure the file includes correct scale, base dimensions, and adequate wall thickness on small parts.

If you only have 2D artwork, we can work from front, side, and top views with clear dimension callouts. In that case, we need to build a 3D model before prototyping. We can help with that; the design service is quoted separately.

Yes. We can help design miniature bases based on gameplay needs, board dimensions, model balance, mold structure, and packaging. If the base needs new 3D design or significant modification, we quote the design work separately.

Common base types: integral bases (model and base are one piece), slot bases (model plugs into the base), and peg/pin assembly (model and base are separate parts that connect later).

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